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Ghana - Upper East Region Sites and Visits

 


 

The Upper East is one of the smallest of Ghana 's 10 regions, but given its size many are surprised at how much there is to see and do here. Without question the best basketware comes from this area. The houses give you the feeling that they spontaneously erupted from the earth. Did you ever hear of a "friendly" crocodile, one so friendly that you can even ride on him? And how about mysterious rocks that sing in the wind? This is an ancient land, lived upon by an ancient people.

From Oral Traditions , historians know that the ancestors of many of Ghana 's ethnic groups entered their present territories by the 10th century AD. For hundreds of years thereafter, upheaval caused by the rise and fall of powerful kingdoms on the upper Niger River contributed to population migrations into northern Ghana . Today's Ghana began with contact from those kingdoms spanning the 8th to 13th centuries. The Frafra people of the Upper East belong to a larger subset of peoples in the area of southern Burkina Faso and northern Ghana collectively known as Gurunsi. Smaller groups within the FraFra include the Tallensi of Tonga and the the Kassena of Navrango. During most of the year, the Upper East is a parched landscape at the mercy of an unforgiving sub-saharan sun. But the spring brings torrents of rain and the land bursts into olives, greens and yellows - and even the stark baobab trees don a cloak of leaves. The Frafra are mainly farmers, growing millet, sorghum, and yams. Maize, rice, peanuts, beans, sesame and tobacco are other cash crops. Men participate in hunting activities during the long dry season. Belief in a Supreme Creator being is central to Frafra beliefs. A shrine to this god occupies the center of every village. Each family compound maintains its own family shrine, containing magical objects which enable the family to maintain contact with the vital forces of nature.

Bolgatanga

is the regional capital of the Upper East. It is both the hub for commerce and the home of a famous craft market that features the leather products of the north and a dazzling array of basketry goods – from hats and bags to traditional baskets, fans and mats. "Bolga", as it is often called, has a good selection of hotels and guest houses, restaurants and outdoor cafés – making it the logical choice for tourists visiting local attractions

 

 

Navrongo

is a sizeable town just north of Bolga on the route to neighbouring Burkina Faso . One of its notable landmarks is the Navrongo Catholic Cathedral. With its traditionally decorated interior, it stands as the last remaining mud cathedral in the country. Built in 1906 by Catholic fathers, in 1972 it was first embellished with magnificantly coloured low relief motifes that reflect local art of the region. Seven women from the nearby village of Sirigu agreed to apply their talents to the interior of the cathedral and decorate it with their enchanting animal forms and geometric patterns. The walls were stripped of their existing paintwork by the village men leaving a smooth but  uneven mud surface onto which the women could apply their decoration. For forty days the women worked on this cathedral. The vitality of these women; their sensitivity; their care and attention to detail render this cathedral a startling masterpiece, a majestic canvas of individual creativity and an outstanding work of art. Because of its historic location, unique architecture and beautiful art, the Navrongo Cathedral has been placed on the UNESCO list of potential World Heritage Sites.

 

 

At First Glance , one might not think that the Upper East has much to offer in the way of wildlife, but appearances can be deceiving. Just outside Navrango is the Tono Dam,  constructed between 1975-1985 to facilitate irrigation for rice cultivation and other crops. The reservoir covers a total area of 3,600 hectares and has become a refuge for many species of birds – including healthy population of herons, egrets and waders. It also supports one of Africa 's most sought-after birds, the seasonally resident Egyptian Plover or Crocodilebird. There is a small guest house near the dam where visitors can stay overnight and perhaps glimpse some of the rare owls and Nightjars that are resident here.

 

The Painted Houses of the region continue to astonish foreign observers. They suggest organic forms that seem to have just sprouted from the earth itself. The architecture is not only elaborate in terms of function and building technology, it also incorporates a variety of forms and design principles. Writings of European explorers in the past have repeatedly described these compounds as "fortresses", "castles" and "citadels". One of the most striking features of the compounds are the wall designs which are either painted, incised (with a pebble), or molded as base-reliefs. They often cover façades looking out of the courts ("zinzaka") and are almost always found around the frames of doorways and on interior walls and furnishings. Painted motifs 

usually come in three colors: black, white, and red. The pigments are obtained from local minerals and plants. The small village of Sirigu is used to receiving visitors and has outstanding examples of this indigenous artform. By tradition it is the women who decorate the houses. The flat rooftops are also used for additional storage and as sleeping quarters when weather conditions merit it. The courtyard is often the scene of millet being sun-dried.

Meet the Friendliest Crocodiles in the world! The frontier town of Paga is located a few kilometers from the border with Burkina Faso and has generated its own fame, thanks to a time-honoured tradition of protecting the local crocodiles. Legend has it that the first settlers were retreating during a war but came across a river that was flooding. They prayed to their gods for assistance and to answer their prayers, a large number of crocodiles suddenly appeared and ferried them across. Since then there has developed a symbiotic relationship between the local people and the fearsome reptiles. Priests can summon the crocodiles from the river at any time – much to the delight of tourists. For a small fee, the priests toss a chicken to snapping jaws, and suddenly the crocodiles become docile. Once appeased, they allow the visitors to approach them, grab them by the tails and even sit on their backs! The people here believe that the crocodile population represents all the citizens of Paga. If one crocodile dies, then it also means the death of a citizen. The crocodiles are the souls of the people of this land and it constitutes a great offence for someone to kill a crocodile. People swim, wash and fish in the ponds without being harmed. Terror grips the community any time they find a crocodile dead. They wait in fear wondering who in the community will follow suit. It's even worse when all the animals start wailing in the pond. The cry of the crocodiles is interpreted as the death knell of an important son of the land. When this happens the elders pour libations and wait sadly for the outcome. 

 

 

The Deep Spirituality of the northern peoples is readily visible in the Tallensi community of Tongo, 16 kms from Bolgatanga. 
The Tong Hills are rocky granite outcrops that rise from the dry  savanna and are one of the most important cultural sites in West Africa . These hills are the sacral epicentre of the Tallensi (Talle people) and an area of outstanding natural beauty and cultural richness. This unique landscape is home to numerous sacred shrines — to the earth (tongban) and to the ancestors (ba'ar). Chief among them is the ba'ar Tonna'ab, nestled in the cliffs above the village of Tenzug . The hills also provide a stage for some of the most colourful and vibrant festivals in Ghana . The Boaram, which takes place in October, is a harvest festival centred on the ancestor shrines. Gologo comes at the end of the dry season and is focused on the great earthshine, Noo. The anatomy of a typical Tallensi compound house shows a network of foot paths encircling it to various places. The house mirrors social and ideological relations among the Tallensi and the architecture serves to create order out of a chaotic environment. The Tenzug landscape bears a close resemblance to the Motopos Hills of Zimbabwe . Because of this unique history, the site has been nominated for inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The area has also been viewed historically by the Akan people as a site of potent ritual power. Pilgrims come from far and wide to consult the Oracle of Tongo for advice and predictions. Another curious feature of this fabled territory is the mysterious Whistling Rocks that "sing" when the winter Harmattan winds begin to blow. If you seek the ultimate "mysteries", then the Upper East Region must be on your agenda known as the Yaa Naa and is by tradition the capital of the Dagbon.

 

 

 

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